Interview with Montblanc's Master Watchmaker

This is the fourth time that Montblanc has given PuristSPro inside access to its staff.  During each interview of the "Getting To Know" series, I have learned to appreciate the Villeret collection even more.  In this article we find out more about the master watchmaker behind the Instiut Minerva de Recherche and what he has planned for this niche product within Montblanc.  I hope you will enjoy reading this and please leave a note of thanks for Montblanc and Mr. Cabiddu for their time.  As always, feel free to leave followup questions.

PPI:  Can you please give us a bit of information about your background? Where were you born? Is watchmaking your only career? What are your other hobbies?

 I am italian from Sardinia even if I was born in Roma!  Indeed, I have always worked in the watch industry. I like running and photography.  

PPI:  Besides Mr. Genta, can you tell us where else you’ve worked? Where did you study and train?

 In 1967, I started at Lémania compagny (today called Breguet) in Orient where I did my training and I studied at the Watch School of the Vallé de Joux.    

PPI:  Can you describe your role with Gerald Genta in more detail?

I started at Gérald Genta in 1991 as complication watch grinder andworkshop’s (l’atelier d’horlogerie) watch leader. A few months later I was in charge of the technical and production sections of the company from the Vallée de Joux, first at Le Brassus, then in 1999 at Le Sentier when Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth compagnies merged.  

PPI:  Mister Cabiddu, your transition from Gerald Genta to Montblanc is now complete. What has been the major difference between the corporate philosophy between these two companies? Which of these philosophies are more compatible with your style of work?

With Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth I had the chance to work on very important projects. I learnt a lot from theses projects and they gave me the possibility to face important challenges through complicated creation like Troubillon, Répétitions, Grandes-Sonneries, etc. Once at Minerva/Montblanc, I had the opportunity to make a dream come true I think every watchmaker wishes: Create watches for collectors, manage almost the totality of the production with old machines and knowhow, and focus on artisanal watchmaking. Another difference between the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie and Gérald Genta is the autonomy for every collection. We create our own movements without any pressure from suppliers. In this way, our movements reach our quality expectations and their aesthetics reach our philosophy.   

PPI:  What has been the greatest technical difficulty with developing a new Montblanc/Minerva timepiece so far? What did you gain from this experience?

Nowadays, Montblanc Minerva watches fit to the philosophy that we have defended for many years. Montblanc shares our vision, which help us in our work. The greatest difficulty is to create innovative timepieces and keeping the authentic techniques and tradition of production without compromising.  

PPI:  Why does the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie focus its attention on making large 47mm watches such as the Grand Chronographe Authentique and Grand Chronographe Authentique Regulateur?  With the high price tag of these Villerets, you already limit your customer base.  And futhermore, your customer base is reduced even more since many will never even considering wearing a 47mm watch.  Why focus on a 47mm dress watch line?   

Today, the 47mm watches are very fashionable to our customers. The size help us to create movements inspired by the history of Minerva and to display particular aesthetics prominently.  However, we noticed that we could not follow only this direction. This is why we are working on future collections with other sizes by keeping the same aesthetic and philosophy.  

PPI:  Is there a hierarchy of design goals at Montblanc Villeret? Accuracy, consistency, durability, reliability, movement architecture . . . which are your priorities?

When we talk about collector’s watches, it is not possible to compromise. This is why the beauty of the movement has to be timeless as well. Thus, the movement’s creation is defined by every criterion you listed.  Our choice to have a large balance wheel and 18’000A/h oscillations are directly linked to this challenge: The large balance wheel with screws give our movement great accuracy and beauty. The 18’000A/h oscillations help against erosion and thus give long life to our watch.

PPI:  Has Minerva ever produced a formed (rectangular) movement? If not, is there a reason why? Are there any special difficulties involved in designing formed movements? Will Montblanc Villeret consider entering chronometer trials in the future?

I have never seen rectangular movements in the past of Minerva, only “barrel” movements which were certainly produced for rectangular watches. Aesthetically, if we should create a rectangular watch, it would be logic to put a formed movement in it. So far we do not develop formed movement. However, we do not exclude this possibility in the future. This is the same story for chronometers.

PPI:  Where do you see Montblanc being in ten years time? What are your visions, expectations and desires?

The adventure with Montblanc started almost three years ago. Together we are working on raising the awareness of customers on the philosophy of the Montblanc Collection Villeret. Of course, this is long term work. I cannot read the future so far away. When I will go on retirement, I would be happy if young collaborators I am working with could continue with this philosophy.  

Photocredit: Dr. Magnus Bosse

PPI:  As a teacher, what do you see missing in the new graduates from Swiss watchmaking schools? How will you and the Minerva Institut develop these critical yet missing skills?

Schools have to teach what companies need. Our choice is to produce in a traditional way which is not the case in the majority of Manufactures. That is why it is normal that we teach these missing skills. The Institut wishes to save this know-how, but not to substitute school.  

PPI:   Did you ever consider going into the business as an independent watchmaker? Did you have any relationship with the original ownership of Minerva?  In retrospect why do you think the previous Italian venture failed?

 I admire watchmakers who created their own brand. I do not have this ambition because being a good watchmaker is not enough to develop your own brand; one needs a lot of courage and commercial experience, which I do not have. Manufactures need watchmakers who can live their passion through the brand too. Before following your ambition, you have to live your passion J The Italian project was not complete. If this project failed, it is probably because the investor, a financer who was a watch collector and passionate, did not realize the industrial and commercial difficulties. When he realized it, he preferred to sell the Manufacture to Richemont However, he helped us in a financial way and supported us in our projects during all these years.I think that without his contribution and his passion, the Institut Minerva would not exist with its current structure. Today, Montblanc brings us support and thanks to its commercial structure, helps us to show the world years of work and to keep us going in the same direction.

PPI:  In your opinion why should collectors purchase a Villeret timepiece? Is there anything you would like to share with the PuristSPro community?

Collectors should only by a Villeret watch if they share our vision and dream. Thus he would help us to keep tradition and would wear timepieces which would always be unique. The will to produce almost every component of our watch by keeping artisanal craftsmanship by hand is essential for us. Unfortunately, it is increasingly difficult to defend these traditions in our consumer society. This is only through your interest and by sharing this philosophy that we will be able to preserve this tradition.  

PPI:  Thank you for your time

Copyright October 2009 - Dr. Michael Ting & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved

Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcome.