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Montblanc Star Classique "On the Wrist Review"

Montblanc Star Classique Review

The Star Collection was Montblanc’s original timepiece line.  For years, these watches languished on the shelves due to outdated designs and a non existent marketing strategy.  Sadly these models helped cement the idea that Montblanc was only a “pen” company in the mind of watch collectors.

 Mr. Jan Patrick Schmitz (President & CEO Montblanc North America), described Montblanc’s early approach:

 “The first pieces we produced really looked like a Montblanc pen, as though you took the pen and brought it into the shape of a watch. There was some criticism from watch collectors, at that time, that our watches were too much like our pens. This was not by accident, though, or because we had a lack of creativity, but rather it was done because we knew we had to speak initially to the Montblanc enthusiast.   At the beginning, strategically, we were not looking to inspire watch collectors but, rather, we were working to inspire Montblanc collectors”.

Ten years of experience and a few hard lessons later, we are beginning to see Montblanc’s successful transformation into a recognized watch brand.  With credible chronographs in the Timewalker, Rieussec, and Villeret model lines, the Star Collection now offers affordable watches to young professionals and enthusiasts as an introduction to Montblanc timepieces.

My first thought when I saw Montblanc’s SIHH 2012 novelties was “what’s old is new again”.  Except for the Timewriter II Bifrequence, every new model was a refined and updated evolution of its predecessor.  Surprisingly what caught my eye was the Star Classique.  In complete defiance to the current trend of "large and loud" watches, Montblanc reached back into history and released a simple and elegant dress watch. Thanks to Montblanc USA, I recently had the opportunity to trial the Star Classique for a few weeks.

The Star Classique is the natural followup watch to the Montblanc Star Date released back in 2010.  Designed to appeal to more conservative enthusiasts, the Star Date was a simple 3 hand watch coupled with a date function encased within a 39 mm diameter case.

This year the model is distilled further by eliminating the date function and creating Montblanc’s first “ultra thin”; the watch’s diameter remains unchanged at 39mm but now the profile is a sleek 8.9mm.

I was sent the stainless steel model with a light silver dial to review although the Classique is available with precious metal cases as well.

The case retains all the structural elements of the Star collection except these have been modified to accentuate the ultra thin design.  The slim bezel and doubly coated domed sapphire crystal allow for the dial to dominate the visual field. 

The onion crown seems diminutive in size but still provides enough surface area for a pleasant tactile feedback during its use.  In the stainless steel version, the crown is capped with the Montblanc star in black and white resin.

The characteristic stepped curved lugs are leaner.  Angling away from the dial also adds to the illusion that the watch is larger than it actually is.

For Purists, the Star Classique provides an additional pleasant surprise: the elimination of the superfluous engraved Montblanc name from the side of its thin case!

The dial of a watch is arguably its most important component.  Not only does the dial translate mechanical movements into recognized units of time but an attractive one tugs on the heartstrings as much as a beautiful human face.  Most experienced watch collectors will preach: "Buy what you fall in love with" so it only makes sense for watch companies to focus on the aesthetics and design of the dial.

It easy to screw up the simple things.  Luckily, Montblanc designers kept the dial clean and efficient.  Instead of the superfluous guilloche background found on the Star Date, the Classique has a simple matte finish.  The date window is gone and replaced with a small sub seconds indicator. 

The sub seconds counter is placed eccentrically.  While this may make the aesthetics of the watch dial off balance, the location is due to the size of the underlying ETA movement (the ETA movement is only 26mm in diameter).  Personally, I prefer the sub seconds counter at its current position rather than centered between the main central pinion and the lower edge of the dial where it could “eat away” at the number six.

Also the stamped Montblanc Star background on the sub seconds counter may be considered an unnecessary extravagance.  However after wearing the watch for a few days, I found that the star pattern functioned perfectly as indices for the small seconds hand…the points and bases of the MB star mark off 5 second intervals.  Any owner can accurately set this watch and monitor its accuracy since the second hand can be hacked.

Notice the traditional Breguet styled Arabic numerals.  The size, thickness of the print, and font makes the watch incredibly easy to read.  No radial flip of the number “9” to confuse the eyes.

 The additional uses of larger indices at the other hour positions keep the aesthetics simple.  Notice that these indices have forms which resemble fountain pen nibs!

The Feuille shaped hands are flamed blue and add a needed splash of color to the dial.

Like most traditional dress watches, the Star Classique does not utilize any lume on any part of its dial or hands.

The engine found in the Star Classique is the automatic caliber 4810/408.  It is a 27 jeweled movement running at a frequency of 28,800 VPH with a 42 hour power reserve. 

 It is nicely decorated with blued screws and Geneva stripes.  Clearly this is an ETA 2895-2 ebauche with a customized Montblanc rotor.  Otherwise there has been no other in house modification that I can see.  To change the time, pull out the crown to the second stop and adjust.  If you pull the crown out to the first stop only and then turn the crown, you will hear the distinctive click of a date wheel change.  This is because the ETA 2895-2 has a quickset date function and the date wheel is hidden under the front dial.

On the wrist my sample of the Star Classic ran + 9 sec/day and the actual power reserve averaged 40 hours.  The automatic winding was efficient because even my sedentary lifestyle provided enough rotation on the rotor to keep the watch running.  According to ETA wearing the watch for 1.5 hours a day is sufficient to wind the Classique's main spring to its full capacity.

Despite being an "off the shelf movement", I completely understand why Montblanc chose the ETA 2895-2.  It is a well known, established, and easily repaired movement.  Because it is a widely available ebauche, after sales service should be accessible locally and the costs to maintain the Montblanc Star Classique will be affordable.

The Star Classic is fitted to a thin Alligator strap with no padding and secured to the wrist by a simple tang buckle.  I didn’t think the thin strap would be comfortable but it was surprisingly supple.

Prior to the arrival of the Star Classique, my weekly watch rotation consisted of a PuristSPro ABR, a Montblanc Dual Carbon Sport, a Certina Action diver, and a Casio G-Shock.  This rotation has lasted for the past 9 months because with two new babies at home I needed “tool” watches.  My formal dress watches were sitting in the safe deposit box.

Wearing the Star Classique was a definite change from my daily routine.  It was light and for the first week of my review, I forgot that I was wearing a watch on my wrist... in fact I fell asleep with the Classique on, something that I have never done before with any of my other watches.  During the trial, I found that even though it is a dress watch, the stainless steel version with the blued hands could be worn more casually.  I did not encounter any mechanical problems and the Classique kept accurate time . 

After returning the watch back to Montblanc, it was tempting to compare the Star Classique to other iconic dress watches that I own like the Patek Calavatra, the JLC Ultrathin, and the Piaget Altiplano.  However these would be unfair comparisons because Montblanc never intended the Star Classique to compete on the same level. The Classique is a practical watch.  For someone who works in business attire, this watch could be worn daily without worry.  Since I wear my dress watches infrequently the Star Classique, especially one in gold, could easily replace all the others I own and I would be completely satisfied.

The Star Classique is available now at all Montblanc authorized dealers.  The RRP starts at 2,390 Euros for the stainless steel models and up to 7,490 Euros for the gold versions.

Author's FTC Disclosure:  This Montblanc Star Classique was obtained on loan from Montblanc USA.  I did not and will not receive any direct compensation nor special considerations from Montblanc USA for this review. 

Copyright September 2012- Michael Ting & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved

Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcome.  

  

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