KIH
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Breakfast with Jerome Lambert, CEO of Montblanc
I had an opportunity to have breakfast with Mr. Jerome Lambert, global CEO of Montblanc the other day. I did the same thing when he visited Tokyo previously as the CEO of JLC and lucky me, he remembered that and invited me to join the breakfast. Similar to his last visit, he was wearing one of the brand's latest creation - the Montblanc Timewalker Chronograph 100.
He was as energetic as before, or even more so this time. Sounded very excited about his new role and about the brand, and its watch line-ups.
First thing that caught my eyes.....
See that it is kept running?
He is ever so energetic - despite only 2 hours of sleep (due to jet lag) at 7:30am (I was the one who was sleepy....sorry
)...
KIH: It's been a while. So nice to see you again here, this time as the CEO of a new maison. You look younger
Jerome Lambert ("JR"): You think so? Nah, I am tired from the jet lag, and aging as we all are. Maybe the last time, I was a bit tired from the marathon training, hahaha. It's been two years since we met here. So nice to come back and meet you again.
KIH: How does your business trip itinerary look like this time?
JR: I just arrived here yesterday, and leaving for Korea tomorrow, then heading back home. 10 years ago, I could do an all Asian countries tour, but each market is so different and I can no longer do so many markets' visits in one trip. Now, I typically limit my trips to just two destinations.
(we talked a little bit about today's global political and economic issues here, hahaha)
KIH: Is it the new Timewalker Chronograph 100 which can measure up to 100th of a second?
JR: Yes. It's beautifully done with two balance wheels and very, very light. I like this a lot.
KIH: Okay, let's talk about the novelties later. Let me ask you some general questions first. How do you feel about being at the helm of the brand - not only watches, but also writing instruments, leather goods and accessories - Montblanc? Where are you leading this brand to?
JR: You are right that Montblanc has been a fine writing instrument brand. But looking back at history, Cartier has been mostly a jewelry brand and Luis Vuitton has been the luggage brand - but they and many other brands have entered new activities and succeeded. Montblanc has been a fine pen and writing instrument brand or maison in mostly German blood, and in 1926 it started its leather products (pen case, brief case, etc.) activity as a "natural extension" and succeeded. Montblanc has been making its own watches since 20 years ago. Now the quantity of watches Montblanc makes is second in the Richemont group.
Now that Minerva has joined Montblanc, it gives us the ultimate in fine watchmaking - small quantity, traditional way of watchmaking. Any old watch maison has gone through times when they changed the brand expression and at Montblanc, it is taking place now.
KIH: So, you are aware that it will take time to have the market or consumers fully integrate the brand Montblanc in their heads.
JR: Yes, in life, everything takes time. But we are accelerating things. Now I can say that within the Richemont group, Montblanc is making one of the highest quality watches. There are signs in the novelties as well. The Meisterstuck Heritage Pulsograph is a good example. It's the fusion of our original factory in Le Locle and Villeret - Villeret factory makes the movement and Le Locle factory assembles into cases. For us, a very epoch making model. Sorry that we made it only as LE of 90 - already almost all spoken for. We will see a lot like this. We will have the watches from Le Locle, from Villeret, and the ones by the combined effort.
KIH: Forgive me for fast forwarding too fast - is there any plan in the future to actually, physically combine those two factories?
JR: I don't think so. They are completely different - history, philosophy and everything. Villeret is not compatible with any modern organization. How Villeret works is in a very, very, particular way. In such a small quantity operation, everything is different from the modern watchmaking process. There are 47 people at Villeret and they make 30 grand complications (e.g. ExoTourbillon class) and 200 other movements per year, while Le Locle outputs 80,000 units per year.
If you take this one for example - Timewalker Chronograph 100, you will see the quality. Very sharp and accurate.
Here is the video of how it works. Very smooth pusher feeling.
Forged carbon on the sides of the titanium case - very light!
KIH: Looking at these very fine watches, I wonder whether you plan on labeling the front and back consistently - i.e., on the movement, we see the "Minerva" label and on the dial, "Montblanc" now, but wouldn't you change it to having both the dial and movement labelled as "Minerva" or both labelled as Montblanc"?
JR: No, I think that is fine for now. It is essential to say "Minerva" because it does come from the factory with a long history (established 1858) at Villeret and it shows that it is made in the traditional way. And we are Montblanc and it is important to have people recognize that these are Montblanc watches.
KIH: Can you tell me something about the future collaboration between those two factories?
JR: No. But here is something - We will show at next year's SIHH, there will be a collaboration of the two factories at the movement level It will have Villeret DNA and the manufacturing quality of Le Locle.
KIH: Okay, thank you for revealing "something" Let me ask you about another novelty this year. There is the new Timewalker with a leather strap developed by Montblanc's leather manufacture. Would you expand this "cross category" collaborations?
It will have Villeret DNA and the manufacturing quality of Le Locle.KIH: Okay, thank you for revealing "something"
Let me ask you about another novelty this year. There is the new Timewalker with a leather strap developed by Montblanc's leather manufacture. Would you expand this "cross category" collaborations? JR: Yes and no. Because we choose straps based on "what is right" for each model and it is not always within Montblanc's capacity. But yes, we are trying to integrate the leather strap production - we are in the unique position because we already have our leather factory and leather strap production is just a natural extension of the business - this year, about 15% of the straps are made by ourselves, but next year, between 75 and 80% of leather straps will be made by ourselves. The more we do it, the more ideas we will have about good quality leather straps for watches.
KIH: What would you want people to think of Montblanc as a brand in 5 years?
JR: I know that Montblanc was and still is considered a writing instrument brand and like I said, it will take time. As JLC took a while to be recognized of being capable of making grand complications - it had to wait until Gyro III came out. So, we just have to continue to reveal Montblanc's true capability for the high end watches and we will have to issue Metamorphosis II and III, as well as other ExoTourbillon series II and III until high end watches and writing instruments are truly combined in peoples' head.
KIH: I understand. Watch lovers do like small quantity high end watches and they will surely know in time that Montblanc is such a high end watch brand. Thank you for your time this morning.
JR: Thanks for coming this early for breakfast and it is always good to see you. We will meet for dinner tonight again, right?
KIH: Yes, I will see you tonight again
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Some more pics from the watches he brought to the breakfast.
Some more pics from the watches he brought to the breakfast.
Timewalker Chronograph 100 - winding: winding one way gives power to the watch, and another way gives power to the chronograph barrel. The big cam directs the power to each barrel quite well depending on the winding direction.
Beautiful, well finished at the movement side - see the "petal" like pattern.
On the bottom is the 28,800 watch balance wheel, on the top is the 360,000 chronograph balance wheel.
Another novelty - Exotourbillon Chronograph Rattrapante GMT
Index rings are all hot enamel.
The tourbillon bridge take a week to twist (infinity shape, they call it) and polish..... Blued hands are so nice....
See how the mono pusher rattrapante works...
Beautiful, well finished at the movement side - see the "petal" like pattern.
On the bottom is the 28,800 watch balance wheel, on the top is the 360,000 chronograph balance wheel.
Another novelty - Exotourbillon Chronograph Rattrapante GMT
Index rings are all hot enamel.
The tourbillon bridge take a week to twist (infinity shape, they call it) and polish..... Blued hands are so nice....
See how the mono pusher rattrapante works...
==============================================================================================
Thanks again,
Mr. Jerome Lambert, CEO, Montblanc
Mr. Jorge Puentes, CEO, Montblanc Japan
Mr. Shingo HIsai, Communication Manager, Montblanc Japan
Please read on to the "Dinner" edition!
Ken
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On the same day, I was invited again to the dinner with Messrs. Jerome Lambert and Jorge Puentes, as well as Montblanc Japan's staff, including the boutique manager, along with several VIP guests. There were a lot more novelties and unique pieces at the d...
Very insightful interview Ken!
I already look forward to Montblanc's offering in SIHH 2015! 2014 has been a great year for Montblanc so far with a very strong lineup of novelties (I will do a post to show some of the new Meisterstuck Heritage already on sale in Singapore soon) and base...
Thanks Robin!
2014 is just the beginning, I felt. 2015 will see more "collaboration" between Le Locle and Villeret factories.... and I can't wait for such "fusion" :-) Ken
Always good to have news from Jerome Lambert.
Montblanc is in good hands. Thanks for the report, Ken. Best, Nicolas.
Yes, it is!
... although people around him got extremely busy :-) But he has Olivier and I am sure MB is all in good hands. Ken
Ken, I'm incredibly jealous...
of the watches, company of Mr. Lambert, and the fabulous dinner. Montblanc seems to be taking a lesson from Lange and Minerva in executing nicely finished and interesting movements. Thank you for sharing these with us. Jeff.
Thanks, Jeff.
.. Actually Minerva has been making watches/ finishing in the same way for a very long time. Interesting movement or design of the movement may have come from other Richemont companies, but their watchmaking sounds like very "manual", which Jerome calls "...
Thanks a lot Ken for the interview and report.
He has a lot of challenges ahead but we could already saw his influence at the SIHH 2014. And we don't have to forget that he also has to spend a lot of time on the other pillars of the activity. Huge job! Fx
Yup!
He seemed so excited about being at the helm of such a HUGE brand - and looking forward to making the future of Montblanc. We must keep an eye on it! Ken
Interesting and refreshing ...
is what comes to my mind, after reading your post/interview my dear Ken. Even when I had the pleasure to see the novelties in Geneva, I appreciate it a lot to see them again - through your eyes. Thanks a lot for sharing! Oliver
Thanks Oliver...
.. What I am always impressed is that Jerome LOVES watches... not as common as we hope in the industry. Ken
I miss these interviews from you, Ken. Thank you for sharing this..
interview with us. Looking forward to Mr. Lambert's success in Montblanc. It is not easy to shift mindsets, from pens to watches, but if there's anybody who can do it, it is Mr. Lambert! Great interview, as usual :-)
Thanks, Echi!
I am very happy to hear that! Yes, Mr. Lambert is so energetic about this brand and he will surely succeed in the light speed! Best, Ken
A great interview...
Trickle down theory works at Montblanc watchmaking. The stuff from Villeret will trickle down to normal Montblanc watches. What shocked me was that Le Locle is producing 80,000 watches a year. That is a lot of watches! And that he said Montblanc is 2nd in...
My pleasure!
Hi Patrick! Well, I didn't know I have revealed so much here :-) He was ever so eloquent this time, hahaha. Hope all is well! Ken
It's either...
It's either you revealed a lot, or I had too much wool over my eyes. And I think you revealed a lot. It's certainly counter-intuitive to think that Montblanc makes more units than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Thanks again Ken!
