jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)[Purist]
13960
Montblanc Villeret ExoTourbillon Chronograph
Jan 30, 2015,23:42 PM
Montblanc released the new Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph during SIHH 2015. This is another example of the collaboration between the 2 manufactures of Montblanc, the manufactures in Villeret and in LeLocle, something which Montblanc's CEO, Jerome Lambert, started doing since SIHH 2014.
The ExoTourbillon was actually first developed in the Villeret manufacture and now deployed in LeLocle too, in the form of the new Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph. It is the first tourbillon system whereby the balance wheel (I love those very large Montblanc Villeret balance wheels!) is larger than the tourbillon cage and oscillates outside the cage on a higher plane. This patented tourbillon system was first deployed in the Minerva calibre MB M16.60, which powers the Montblanc Villeret ExoTourbillon Chronograph.
I was shopping along Orchard Road in Singapore recently and dropped by the flagship Montblanc Singapore boutique at Mandarin Gallery. This very watch caught my eye and I was very fortunate to be able to see it in the metal! These grand complications from the Villeret range are very rare and I seldom get to see them in Montblanc boutiques (well even "regular" Montblanc Villerets are not easy to spot in their boutiques). Took the chance to snap some pics to share with fellow PuristS here
First impressions of the watch - big, heavy, complex dial, looks and feel very finely crafted. It is a big watch at 47mm and heavy too!
First the dial. First look - hmmm how do I tell the time?? After a few seconds I figured out - it's a regulator watch. The main hand is the minute hand. The sub dial has the hour hand and a second timezone hand. There is also a day/night indicator subdial at 4 o'clock and a seconds sub dial at 9 o'clock. Oh and I almost forgot amongst these "sea of info" - this is a Monopusher chronograph too. I love those Minerva Monopusher chronos! The chrono indicators are at the 3 o'clock sub dial. At the top of the dial is the mighty ExoTourbillon system! Seeing the large balance wheel (14.5mm) oscillate at a leisurely traditional pace of 18,000 vibrations per hour is a therapeutic treat !
Looking at the case design, I find it very consistent with other Montblanc Villeret cases with the hunter case back. It is very similar to my Montblanc Villeret grand feu enamel chronograph's case. Smooth side profile curves, the "onion" crown with the mother of pearl Montblanc emblem, the secret catch to the hunter caseback, the lug designs etc - all very consistent across the Montblanc Collection Villeret range. I hope all Montblanc friends here have a chance to handle such a case in the metal. It's crafted in a very fine and luxurious way that I cannot describe in words (and I hope the pictures help a bit). Opening the hunter case back by "twisting backwards the strap" to activate the hidden hunter back catch is such a joy (and a very personal bonding exercise if you are a Montblanc Villeret owner). Only the owners get to see the movement, otherwise it's hidden (and many won't know this is a hunter back or even if they know - how to open the caseback is another challenge as the catch is hidden). I love these details
The calibre MB M16.60 is a very finely finished large movement. One first looks, it reminds me a bit of the Montblanc Villeret chronograph movement 16.29 with all the sexy chrono lever curves and the Minerva arrow tip found on every Minerva movement. I sometimes wonder why Montblanc would rhodium plate their movement plates which are made of German silver. Leaving it untreated would give a golden patina color which Lange lovers would love (I suspect the JLC duometre movement plates are also made of untreated German silver). I guess Minerva wants to follow the traditional Swiss style of movement designs (understated colors) instead of the more "colorful" Saxon movement design code like in Langes. Anyone who know more here pls share your thoughts.
Finally, even though I know I cannot carry off such a large watch on my tiny wrist, I mustered my courage to try it
My wrist size is only around 6.3 inches and of course, a 47mm watch will look funny on me. I have seen my fellow moderator Horogasm wearing his 47mm Montblanc Villeret grand chronograph and it looks great on him! He has average sized wrists and he could carry such a size well. One of the reason I guess is the curved hunter back and also the leather covering the gap between the lugs. These details help the watch wear smaller optically.