Excellent review of an excellent watch!

Apr 07, 2009,00:25 AM
 

Dear Mike

very interesting and eye-opening second view at the MB NR chronograph. It is encouraging to see that MB took some of the criticisms voiced in the initial review seriously and addressed them swiftly. But even that aside, the proposed price point of the watch makes it an almost irresistible offer. A fresh appearance (but see below) coupled with an out-of-the-box movement are a rare combination. The two main complications are both useful and satisfy a man's desire to play... A commendable achievement for a newcomer manufacture!

But at the end of the day, the watch also shows that MB still has some way to go. There are a few handling/comfort issues (the clasp, ...) to be solved (remember MB is a well-established luxury fountain pen maker, so the public will be particularly sensitive to these issues!) and there are finishing/assembling issues (some dial flaws, lack of finesse of (hand?) decoration, dust and excess lubricants on the movement) which are tell-tale signs that the horological learning curve has not reached its end. Such imperfections should not be present in this league.

Another topic are design details. I agree with you on the date window (why on earth do so many watch companies currently feel the need to remind us that there is a day before and a day after the current day?) and that there is too much 'literature' on the dial. Not only that, there are at least three different fonts used.

As others have mentioned some time ago, the design bears traces of a 'committee design' instead of consequently developing a unique personality. What I do not appreciate is the use of the ubiquitous Breguet numerals on the main dial. Are the Breguet numerals meant as 'traditional safety belts' in this context? I know that a few major houses, e.g. Patek Philippe, use them as well, but MB is a different case: MB has no history in matchmaking to cater for and could (and should!) thus afford to start afresh. Particularly since the overall concept of the watch is so refreshingly unique.

So, my bottom line is that the watch could exploit its uniqueness even more if MB would not be afraid of their own bravery. While all of the above are rather minor (and strictly personal) niggles, I think this is essential for MB to be more consequent if they indeed want to establish their own watchmaking identity. Which in turn I think is a prerequisite for long-term success as an established watch manufacturer.

They have all the basic ingredients already there, but what is the common denominator across the collections except the logo in the crown? To find a comprehensive answer to this question will be crucial for MB's watchmaking future. It will exciting to follow the further path!

Mike, I shall take this opportunity to congratulate you for your moderatorship of the Montblanc forum! All the best!
Magnus

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On the Wrist-- A review of the Montblanc Rieussec GMT

 
 By: mkt33 : April 6th, 2009-17:39
Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph GMT/Date Review by Michael Ting and Anthony Tsai © April 2009 There is an often quoted belief that men are attracted to timepieces because they allow us to express our individuality in a subtle and socially acce...  

Where's Piguet

 
 By: aaronm : April 6th, 2009-18:46
In your review you twice mention other chronograph movements with vertical clutches and column-wheels, but you failed to mention the f. piguet 1185 family, which has those features and is available in this price range. The question of it's "in-house" pedi... 

Great review

 
 By: respo : April 6th, 2009-19:42
Wow guys, that is agreat review. I wish all reviews were that thorough and interesting. I really appreciate all the time you put into. The MB chrono looks beautiful and is impressive. I had one question about something you wrote towards the end of the rev... 

Thanks Respo, oops I meant to say an in house integrated monopusher column wheel chronograph

 
 By: mkt33 : April 6th, 2009-21:33
See the comment below. The vertical coupling used in the Montblanc Rieussec employs a vertical disk clutch which is different than the usual vertical clutch mechanism. Eventhough the overall concept is the same, the implementation is different. I have nev... 

Michael, please note that the MIH watch is a coulisse-operated mono-pusher...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 6th, 2009-23:37
based upon the Valjoux 7750, with a modification on the coulisse developed by Paul Gerber (the company Hanhart offers a mono-pusher version of the 7750 as well). Please note the additional notches on the mono-pusher version (arrows): I do not want to be p...  

Thank you for that clarification. You presented elegantly what I struggled to explain

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-08:37
poorly. I wanted to capture the historical fact that most early chronographs were of the monopusher type employing a column wheel mechanism where the the acutator itself advanced the column wheel in one direction. I had forgotten that Herr Gerber had deve... 

It is not a traditional vertical clutch using

 
 By: mkt33 : April 6th, 2009-20:22
clutch arms which lift or lower the center wheel like the F.Piguet. Rather these clutch arms are replaced by a disk hence the reference to "vertical disk clutch". If we were talking about traditional automatic vertically coupled chronographs I couldn't ha... 

Ahh, so the hands are the opposite of the MHT

 
 By: aaronm : April 7th, 2009-07:54
The "current" time is Solid, and the home-time is open? A

Yes, that's correct. The watch didn't come with an instruction booklet. It look a bit

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-08:23
to understand the GMT/quickset function but it is quite usefull. Sort of like the UN GMT +/- Best, Mike

Great review!

 
 By: DRMW : April 6th, 2009-20:11
Thanks for sharing! -MW

I want one!

 
 By: Allen : April 6th, 2009-21:57
What a gorgeous watch. I applaud their decision to make a stainless steel version. Thanks for the wonderful review, guys!

That means a lot coming from you Allen. I was shocked (in a good way)

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-08:44
at the sticker price. Maybe because over the past few years I've been just accepting the outrageous MSRP I've seen but it is a different environment. I'm glad they didn't just stick to precious metals, producing the Rieussec in stainless brings it into th... 

Not an ugly watch, indeed.

 
 By: amanico : April 6th, 2009-23:17
An original dial, a nice movement, and a correct finish. It now needs a story to build. But Montblanc does all for that, obviously. Great work, Mike. Best, Nicolas

The Rieussec line was a completely different project

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-08:46
which had been in development at Montblanc for quite a bit of time. That's why we are here: To tell the story which Montblanc is trying to build Cheers, Mike

Great review, Mike!

 
 By: dxboon : April 6th, 2009-23:58
One thing I like about this watch is that it has a dial with big personality. I give Montblanc credit for giving this watch a unique face to present to the world. I definitely like the movement and feel that the finishing is quite attractive. The only asp... 

Hi Daos, yes those two displays could use some fine tunning

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-08:48
your thoughts are along the same as mine. Keep the date singularly displayed and " add a little sizzle " (my son's favorite phrase currently) to the night/day wheel. I think it would be more attractive that way. Cheers, Mike

Excellent review of an excellent watch!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 7th, 2009-00:25
Dear Mike very interesting and eye-opening second view at the MB NR chronograph. It is encouraging to see that MB took some of the criticisms voiced in the initial review seriously and addressed them swiftly. But even that aside, the proposed price point ... 

An absolute learning curve which I think Montblanc is serious about

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-09:05
overcoming. On the wear comfort, I think this is easily solved. I choose to switch it out to a tang buckle and perhaps this is how the Rieussic should be packaged. Deployant clasps are nice but they all vary in their wear comfort so perhaps we should leav... 

Dear Mike, the only things the 'imitations" prove...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 8th, 2009-04:05
is that there is some with either (i) no vision, (ii) no willingness to invest in developing a vision and implementing it or (iii) the guts to take a shortcut on marketing, in that he/she 'outsources' the marketing to the established brands. Imitation may... 

I beg to differ on one point, Magnus . . .

 
 By: Dr No : April 7th, 2009-09:21
. . . regarding the suitability of Breguet numerals for the hour chapter. Breguet and Rieussec were contemporaries, so in my view, the choice Montblanc made is consonant aesthetically and historically . . . cordially, Art

Amazing review!

 
 By: Mostel : April 7th, 2009-01:25
My simple opinion is that this is a really 'interesting' watch, but one that is 'so novel' that it will not see many owners... and at the same time... Montblanc is demonstrating that it wants to be extraordinary manufacture. I get the feeling from this wa... 

Mostel, I think you've got to hold the Rieussec and see.

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-09:11
I was turned off by the initial images I saw of the limited edition last year. You can actually read my comments which I can never retract since they've been printed on the internet. I hesitated to even review this watch because of my first impressions ba... 

Wonderful Review and Insight as Well as the Follow Up Posts

 
 By: NJ_Mark : April 7th, 2009-05:54
This is certainly a very bold watch for Montblanc in so many ways and I applaud their making it available in stainless steel making it more affordable and available to a larger audience. So many manufacturers have eliminated stainless as an option which i... 

Thanks Mark. What ever design MB puts out it has

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-09:14
to create an emotion amongst us. Love it or hate it as long as long as this passion is stirred within the consumer then the designers have achieved one critical aspect of their mission. Before I never like the Timewalker series but I've actually grown fon... 

I'm impressed....

 
 By: Davo : April 7th, 2009-06:06
I want one!

I just called the boutique

 
 By: Davo : April 13th, 2009-14:37
here in Tokyo and they will have the YG and SS versions this month. I'll be checking them out soon. Can't wait...

Great review Mike. This is one watch that has to been seen to be appreciated

 
 By: SJX : April 7th, 2009-08:31
First time I saw it in pics I thought it looked awful but in the metal it is different, especially the open-dial version launched at SIHH this year. - SJX

That is the word on the street. Can't wait to see one at the boutique.

 
 By: mkt33 : April 7th, 2009-09:16
it will be hard to justify especially after tax season :-( but oh well that is why I work ! Thanks SJX, Mike

Great review. I have seen the red gold version

 
 By: Alchemist : April 7th, 2009-20:59
Nice job with the detail and the pics. I have not seen the steel version, but I have seen the red gold version at the boutique in New York. At first I was not a fan, but after a few minutes of studying the details I began to appreciate this timepiece. It ... 

Thanks Guys, for the review,

 
 By: papillonwatchman : April 8th, 2009-12:28
great one and a nice watch, i like the one with the gray dial, and in steel for that price, wow Best, Michel

I still like the "Bullhead"

 
 By: MTF : April 9th, 2009-10:29
That's the nickname for this model in collectors' circles because the subdials and 'dial bridge' make it look like a bull's face with nose-ring. Very cool in this new metal and I like the 2-tone better for more "bully beef" contrast! MTF

Bullhead like this? :)

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : April 10th, 2009-10:56
I even found a bull with a nose ring for you...  

LOL thanks. (nt)

 
 By: MTF : April 10th, 2009-11:57
nt

that was funny! (nt)

 
 By: mkt33 : April 11th, 2009-05:21
.

Stunning! ....

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : April 10th, 2009-13:40
... you brought Montblanc nearer to me. this review is great stuff, as is the watch. I am very glad to see the tradition of fine and timeless looking watches is continued, while so many other brands limit themselves to pseudo-modernistic designs. Best reg... 

Thanks Marcus (nt)

 
 By: mkt33 : April 11th, 2009-05:21
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